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Pre-climbing Information for Nepal

Manaslu Climbing
Manaslu Climbing

How to apply for climbing permit:

Supply us following details and we make an application on your behalf:

01. Name of the peak and height.

02. Climbing period and your rough itinerary

03. Name nationality and passport number of the leader and all the members

04. Bio-data of each climber

Process to get a Climbing permit:  After we have received your application we will enclose other relevant documents and register it at the Mountaineering Division of the Ministry of Tourism. After the registration, it takes about a minimum of 3 days to complete the whole process to get an approval letter from the Ministry of Tourism. As soon as the highest authority in the government approves your application you will get a letter from the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Tourism asking you to pay climbing permit fees within a specified period.

Climbing budget:  We can either give you a bulk figure inclusive of all the services or you can commission us for part of the service. Everything depends upon how past experience in organizing the expedition in Nepal and how you would prefer to do it. But we would suggest you supply the following information to figure out the cost of the expedition:

a) Approximate weight of expedition equipment and food

b) Walk in and out of base camp itinerary

c) What kind of service is required at base camp

d) Number of High altitude porter and guides required above base camp

e) Number of high camps above base camp

f) Number of staffs required during walk-in

g) Number of Staffs required at base camp

Staffs in climbing expedition:

Liaison Officer: This is a representative of the government who is assigned the job to ensure the team has abided by the government regulation and also to help the expedition whenever required. The expedition team should pay all his expenses. This officer stays at the base camp and files periodic report to the government.

Sardar or headman of the expedition: The title is given to the headman of the expedition. Sardar is the head of the Nepalese staffs. He takes cares of the expedition cargo from the nearest airport to and from the base camp. He ensures that there is no bottleneck in the base camp operation. Generally, he has the authority to hire and fire staffs. He takes orders from the expedition leader and base camp manager only.

Mountain Guide:  His job is specifically mentioned in the mountaineering regulation. His status above base camp is superior to Sardar (headman). Basically, he is a professional climber who knows the route to the summit of the peak. He has wide responsibility above base camp. The number of mountain guides depends upon the climbing experience of members.

High Altitude porter: They are also known as high altitude Sherpa or high altitude assistance. The term high altitude porter has become obsolete in the present context. However government regulation still has it so the term is used while corresponding with the government. Present acceptable terminology is “High Altitude Assistant.” Beside portering of high altitude equipment and the food they set up camps and assist climbing members during the climb. Besides that, in an emergency, their role becomes more important. They actively participate in the evacuation work. Most sherpas employed in high altitude work are professional workers. They are key to the success of the expedition. Generally, we provide two high altitude assistants to one member when climbing members do not take active participation in setting up camps. Camp I in Everest is a high camp above base camp; so normally we employ one high altitude assistant as cook/kitchen to look after at the camp.

Low Altitude porter:  They are an important link in the expedition. Without them, expedition cargo (food and equipment) does not move to the base camp. They help to carry the goods from the nearest road head or airstrip to the base camp. In places like the Everest region (known as Khumbu also) often yaks are also used in combination with porters.

Base camp worker: This camp is manned by workers like cook, kitchen boys, mail runner and Sardar if he does not go above base camp. Climbing members and high altitude workers often return back to base camp for rest. While at the base camp they are looked after by the base camp staffs. The size of base camp workers depends upon the group size of the expedition team. Normally there will be 1 cook, 3 kitchen boys for a group size of 5 to 7 persons. Above 10 people there will be 1 assistant cook and 1 additional kitchen boy to every 6 persons above a group size of 7 persons. This number includes members, high altitude guide and assistants.

Import of food and expedition equipment:  If you plan to bring expedition food and equipment either by air cargo or ship you should send an invoice and airway bill or bill of lending (4 copies) to us. An invoice should have CIF Kathmandu value. The list should be divided into Consumable and Non-Consumable items (goods). The Expedition team is entitled to obtain a custom facility from the government. Usually, custom duty for expedition goods is 12% of the declared value. To save cost we suggest you get our expert advice before you plan to send your expedition goods to Nepal. It is best to bring as accompanied baggage.

Communication Equipment for expedition use:  According to Nepalese law communication equipment of all kinds including walkie-talkie should be declared at the custom at the time of entry into Nepal. The declared instrument is kept at the Customs Office at the airport. It can be collected after producing the required permit from the Ministry of Communication. To get the permit from the Ministry of Communication you should submit the necessary information (catalogue of the instrument) of the equipment to the government and a recommendation letter from the Ministry of Tourism.

Mountaineering Regulation: Nepalese Government Mountaineering Rules and Regulation for full-scale mountaineering require permission from the government Ministry of Tourism. The unit handling the permit is called Mountaineering Section. The expedition peak is controlled and regulated by Tourism Act 2035 and Mountaineering Regulation 2059 (2002) and the amendment made thereafter. Following basic provisions are in the regulation:

Expedition cost includes: meals and camping facilities at the base camp and during a walk in and out of the base camp, transport, porterage, air cargo, cost of government liaison officer, camp staffs, equipment and insurance for personnel, airfare as per programme.

Cost does not include: High altitude guide and porters, oxygen and oxygen set, rescue cost, climbing gears, climbing and camping equipment above base camp, high altitude food, communication equipment, insurance and expenses of personal nature and tips. Climbing permit fees and surcharge if applicable and expenses that are not specifically mentioned are not included in the price.

If you want to make a total budget write to us.</>

Payment of expedition permit: After the application is made a preliminary climbing permit would be given to you. For Mount Everest, you will have to pay five percent and for the rest of the peaks ten percent of the royalty at the time of application. Full payment of the royalty should be paid within one year from the date of getting a preliminary permit. If full payment is not made within the time the permit would be automatically cancelled.

Change in climbing peaks: Proposed peak can be changed with prior approval of the government. However, the prepaid amount is non-refundable even if the permit cost of the new peak is less.

Postponement of the expedition:   The climbing date can be postponed with prior approval of the government Maximum of 2 years is allowed for the delay.

No Show or refund:  The permit fees that ia already paid is non-refundable. However, it can be transferred to another peak or the scheduled date for climbing can be postponed. You can postpone the date up to two years. Application to the Ministry and approval is mandatory in such a case.

New Royalty: (Effective from 01 Jan 2015) 

1.      Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person in American Dollar

Table No. 8
S.N Mountain Spring Season Autumn Season Winter/ Summer
1. Everest Normal Route 11000 5500 2750
2. Everest Other Route 10000 5000 2500
3. Others Mountain more than 8000 m. 1800 900 450
4. 7501m.-7999m. 600 300 150
5. 7000m. – 7500m. 500 250 125
6. 6501m – 6999m. 400 200 100
7. Mt. Amadablam (6812M) 400 400 200
8. Less than 6500 250 125 70

 

2.      Royalty for Nepalese Climber per Person in Rupees

Table No. 8
S.N. Mountain Spring Season Autumn Season Winter/ Summer
1. Everest Normal Route 75000 37500 18250
2. Everest Other Route 60000 30000 15000
3. Others Mountain more than 8000 m. 10000 5000 2500
4. 7501m.-7999m. 8000 4000 2000
5. 7000m. – 7500m. 6000 3000 1500
6. 6501m – 6999m. 5000 2500 1250
7. Mt. Amadablam (6812M) 8000 8000 4000
8. Less than 6500 4000 2000 1000

The Mountaineering Royalty has been totally waived to those mountains situated on mid western and Far western development region of  Nepal for 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018)

The royalty of foreign climbers will effect from 01 Jan 2015 and Royalty for Nepali climbers will effect 2070.11.1

Schedule – 9 (Relating to sub-rule (1) of Rule 26)

 Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management

The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management :

 (a) For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range – 

For the Mount Everest Four thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.
For the other mountain having the height of above 8001 meter except Mount Everest Three thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 7001  to 8000 meter and Amadablam mountain Two thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of 6501 to 7000 meter One thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of less than 6500 meter Five hundred U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

 

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

For the other mountain having the height of more than  8000 meter Three thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees
For the mountain having the height of less than  8000 meter Five hundred U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.

Mountaineering season:

• Spring ( March, April, May)• Summer ( June, July, August)

• Autumn ( September, October, November)• Winter ( December, January, February)

New provision for staff Insurance: As per the decision of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the insurance amount for Sardar, mountain guide and high altitude walker fund is fixed as Rs 15 lakhs. Similarly, medical insurance is fixed as Rs 4 lakhs. Mountain Heli-rescue that covers the evacuation of Nepalese staffs is set 10000USD is also required.

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